India - Choki Dani

Choki Dani is a traditional Rajasthani cultural village (and I use the word "traditional" a little loosely). The previous day I ran into my friend Laura at our guesthouse in Jaipur (she had attended the same textile show I was in Delhi). It was such an unexpected surprise to see her. She and her boyfriend Tom were heading to Choki Dani for dinner and asked me to join them. We arrived and decided to visit the various cultural exhibits before dinner. - magic shows, fire throwing, puppet shows, fortune telling, oh, and camel riding. I was at the jewelers shop (of course) when I heard a familiar laugh coming from the other side of the village (yes, she was THAT loud). Following the familiar noise of my friend, I found her atop a rather tall camel cracking up. She said it was one of the funniest things she had ever done, so I thought I would give it a go. Since she had so much fun the first time, she said she would go again. Listen very carefully in the second video for my scream as the camel came down to rest so we could get off. I'm still laughing about the experience.





All the camel escapades worked us into an appetite frenzy, so we headed into the tent for dinner. Laura, Tom and I all sat in wonderment as they served us the various traditional Rajasthani food. Having no idea what we were actually eating, we just smiled and prayed we would live. I forgot to bring a water bottle, so I had to drink the water they poured into my tiny terracotta cup. I took as tiny sips as possible thinking, "oh my gosh, what am I DOING, I'm not going to survive the Indian water!!" My mom has always said that alcohol kills tiny organisms so we got our driver to stop and get beer on the way home. There we were, huge bottles of beers in hand, in this beautiful white ambassador classic taxi, Laura and Tom arm in arm in the back. We felt like we were in the middle of a James Dean movie. It was quite a picture.

I did survive the meal, didn't get sick (miraculously) and savored the experience. It was so interesting to see the different ways that the Hindi people have preserved their culture and traditional arts. It was one of the highlights of my trip to India.

India - Jaipur

Imagine trucks wildly passing each other, cars narrowly missing oncoming traffic, camel carts lining the shoulders, painted elephants crossing at intersections. . . Jaipur is a city where monkeys dot the landscape and cows are the usual suspects in daily traffic jams. I physically remember sitting in the back of an autorickshaw with my driver Dinesh wondering impatiently what could be the holdup. It turned out to be a cow in the middle of a round-a-bout oblivious to the ensuing chaos around him. Cows, sacred in the Hindi religion, and by extension, India, are allowed to freely roam the streets and markets. Its a bit unnerving at first, but completely normal after a few days. I even got used to monkeys skimming by my feet as I walked along the dusty roads.







Jaipur itself is hectic with its busy markets and crowded streets. People sell everything from colorful sarees to dishware to baby pigs. You never know what you are going to come up on as you round a corner. On our way to the ancient astronomical obeservatory site, we stumbled across some snake charmers. Seeing two cobras a couple of feet from my feet was indeed a sight I won't forget. I thouroghly enjoyed Jaipur, bedlam and all. We were lucky enough to visit in January which is wedding season in India. These ceremonies are quite the celebration. Huge elephants, decorated white horses, lights and lavishly dressed party-goers walk the street as part of the procession. The ritual itself was facinating, even after the 30th wedding we saw. It is clear that keeping the time-honored custom alive is paramount in this traditional culture. We felt lucky to see it again and again.

India - Amber Fort

Amber fort, just about 10 kilometers from Jaipur, tops a hill overlooking Maotha lake. It was begun in 1592 by Raja Man Singh, who was an army commander of the reigning Emperor Akbar. It was completed by Sawai Jah Singh about two centuries later. Forts in India are the equivalent of castles in Europe. The architecture is a fusion of Mughal and Hindu architecture, typical of the many forts of this area. Amber, however is the crowning jewel of Jaipur.




We opted out of the elephant trek and braved the trail. The hike to the top of the fort was nice and easy, and a great walk after spending so much time in a car. On the path, we encountered a snake charmer who was having a little trouble getting his cobra to behave. I sat and watched as the snake uncoiled himself OUT of the basket, onto the pavement and toward my feet. I've never moved so fast in my life. The snake charmer blamed the snake's erratic behavior on the sun. I blame the snake's erratic behavior on the SNAKE !! Continuing our trek to the top, we decided not to hire a guide and try to explore the fort on our own. We probably missed some key things, but were lucky enough to come upon a guard who gave us a side tour and showed us some of the private bedrooms of the Maharajah and his 12 wives.





I found that one of the main things that struck me about the fort were the views. One things that architects strive to do is to frame spectacular views. I would say this is one of the crowning achievements of the builders of this fort. Everywhere I looked, I would see another breathtaking view through a window or doorway. The height, colors, surrounding landscape, and artistry all contribute to making the successful sight the Amber Fort continues to be throughout the centuries. The photographs really speak for themselves.

India - The Taj Mahal

The Road to Agra. A story unto itself. I wonder how I made it from Delhi alive ! I can still hear the echoes of the beeping horns as I think about our journey to the famous Taj Mahal. Named for Mumtaj Mahal, beloved wife of Emperor Shah Jahan, this monument to her beauty began in 1631 and was completed three decades later. It is made entirely of white marble, inlaid with lapis, carnelian, malachite and various jaspers.


We arrived in Agra via taxi, stopped to get a local guide and transferred to electric vehicles for our last mile to the Taj. Agra has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site - not to mention one of the Seven Wonders of the World, therefore gas emissions are nowhere near the white marbled walls of India's most famous sight. We were strictly instructed by our guide about prohibited items - no cell phones, radios, tripods, matches, a list of random items. I got rid of my cell phone and my big tripod, but I didn't really think the mini-tripod would be dangerous. Upon entering security and post-pat-down, I was told I would have to surrender my ipod, my mini-tripod and a carabeaner. Go figure!! I understand not allowing electronics (especially in volatile parts of the world in precious national monument areas), but a carabeaner?? I still don't get that one. I checked my items and we made it on our way. Our anticipation built as we approached the procession to the main gate and saw the palace for the first time. It was so beautiful as it just appeared into view. We continued down the main axis, snapping shot after shot, walked around the west side and ended up inside the main tomb. After shooting about 50 pics, our guide told us this was the most photogenic building ever built. I can think of many buildings that I have spent hours photographing. . . The Chrysler Building in Manhattan, The Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, The Capitol Building in D.C., the Bank of China Building in Hong Kong, and yes, I can definitively say for me, this belongs high on the list. All the mentioned buildings are some of my favorites, whether it be the architecture, the ornament, or the context. But the Taj Mahal is about emotion. The building is a timeless story unto itself. Walking the grounds, taking in the endless views, you see a story of undying love and devotion unfold and you admire the embodiment of that in a structure. As an architect myself, it speaks on what vision and passion can accomplish. I was surprisingly moved.