Ephesus

Ephesus tipped me over the edge. As we approached the main walk into Ephesus, I cought a glimpse of the Library at Celcus, built in 102 a.d. Awaiting the end of the main street, it provided a vista worth the anticipation. I found it hard to concentrate on the parceled out structures of Main Street Ephesus because I kept catching the structure several hundred yards down. Ephesus actually has 7 versions of itself as it was always evolving and morphing through its ages. This particular main street had a wonderful little tiled area preserved over the last two millennia. Our guide told us it was an area where men and women of Ephesus would come to gather, have a drink, sit outside to enjoy the sun and conversation... basically the Union street of the first century. Our sidewalk cafes of today are not much different. However, I don’t expect ours to hold up 2000 years.

Proceeding finally to the Library, taking every shot possible, I found it hard to capture the draw of the structure on film. There is no way to express it in a photograph. Its age is what beautifies it; the texture and detail that leave nothing bare or simple, the symmetry and proportion that draw you closer, the staggered façade that breathes life into the rooms inside. I loved the unique yellow color contrasting the hillside, yet beautifully resting in its context like it belonged nowhere else. This will go toward the top of my list in structures that drew me in and inspired me to explore more.

I lost my traveling companions in the midst of my library awe and worked to catch up. They were fast on their feet to the Amphitheater. I can understand eagerly wanting to walk in Paul’s footsteps and stand at the dias of his Ephesian address. Breaking the library charms over me, I ventured further on to the enormous amphitheater. Climbing and descending, I explored every square inch for which I had time. Sweeping views told of how magnificent and exciting a theater like this would have been like at its height. I can imagine what it must have been like for Paul to walk the streets and preach to a culture like the Ephesians. As I ventured through the town and read about the daily life and customs of its inhabitants, it reminded me in many ways of the life of my own town of San Francisco. Sidewalk cafes to take in the sun, bookshops to pass time, and open plazas to mingle, all contributed to Ephesus as a forward thinking and progressive city.

Upon leaving Ephesus, we were able to go to a little house up in the hills that most people of Catholic faith regard as Mary’s last home. Many Protestants have adopted this claim as well. She was known to have gone to Ephesus with John and live out her last days there. We actually got to experience mass there at her home. I myself am considered a reformed protestant, yet I felt the gravity of this place so many Catholics revere as Holy Ground. A pilgrimage to many, I observed the reverence and love the people there held for the Holy Mother and her significance to their faith. Not being taught much about Mary in my own faith, it was quite a learning experience to me and one I’ll remember.

We had to return for our long sail to Istanbul, but not without a quick stop at the market at Kusadasi. Knowing I can whip through a market in record time, I hit the ground running in search of nothing but that which would fancy my eye. Down to the last minute, I heard my friend on the walkie say she was heading back to the ship, whilst I caught sight of a beautiful pair of antique earrings. Since I need more jewelry, of course I stopped dead in my tracks… and the mistake of trying them on is what sealed the deal. They are a lovely little pair of Byzantine costume earrings that are probably as “antique” as my last laptop, yet I love them all the same.

Ephesus and the surrounding sights of Mary’s home, the remains of the vast Temple of Artemis, the unbelievable library, will no doubt be one of my favorite ports on this trip. I have always been drawn to Turkey and have never actually been before now. I await the excitement of Istanbul and what wonderful sights I might find there.